Walking 32 kms with a 12 year old.

Walking 32kms with a 12 year old.

It is dark. It is 4.30 a.m. The alarm has just gone off. Tom (my 12 yr old grandson) and I are being picked up in Hamilton,by the Road Cat shuttle at 5.20 a.m. to catch the plane to Queenstown from Auckland. The start of our very exciting four day freedom hiking trip of the Routeburn Track.

Checking in was seamless but for some bizarre reason I believed our packs had to be bubble wrapped so for many precious minutes the night before Tom and I had wrapped and sellotaped our big packs, only to be looked at by a very bemused check in person, asking why we had done that!!!!

 Tom was a little white faced as he had no idea what the following four days held in store for him.
For me it was four very precious days to spend with him.

Lots of hugs and laughter when meeting up with Tony (my brother in law, who I have enjoyed many hikes with) and his daughter Alex (Also 12yr) as they were to do the hike with us. Di, my sister in law, was a little envious of us going without her. The "Last supper" was enjoyed at Farelli's, a beautiful, authentic  Italian restaurant . The food and wine enjoyed that night,certainly set us up for the four days of hiking food.

First Day:
A really great coffee before getting on the bus, settled some of the butterflies in the stomach. I had done this track about five times before but you are never sure of what may lie ahead. Lots of nervous chatter as we travelled on the bus then finally we were at the track and swinging our packs on our backs, we were on our way. All I could hear from Tom was "WOW!! This is amazing" accompanied by another click of his camera. The track was edged with beech trees. The track smothered with tiny leaved. Black  Robins swooped and twittered around us. Birdlife was plentiful due to a  a very good trapping program

Stopping at the Routeburn Flats hut for lunch introduced Tom to Pita Bread, a dryish, but doughy bread, useful for hiking as it doesn't go mouldy but quite difficult to eat with dry salami and cheese. This recipe needs to change. Maybe Tuna or Salmon sachets would provide a little moisture.  Tom never came to terms with it, just managing to force down half a slice so his body had some refueling.

A really steep, sharp hike brought us to the first hut. A 4hr hike, not including stops (which I needed quite a few of).  Macaroni Cheese made from a packet and mixed with dried milk powder and water was eaten with gusto, for dinner. This was a real winner.

Second Day. On to the Mackenzie Hut, a 50 bedded bunk house, situated by the very picturesque Lake Mackenzie. Packs on at the Routeburn Falls and off we started over a fairly rocky track. Waterfalls and stunning views greeted us at each corner we turned. With the weather being so kind to us(sunny but not too hot) it was pleasant to just walk and absorb the views. Although today was 6 hrs so while we wanted to enjoy it we didn’t want to stretch it out too long. We kept changing partners which was nice. Stopping for lunch on the  Harris saddle, we were  provided with amazing views of snow lying in the crevices of the rocky mountains which surrounded us.  About an hour before the end we cam across a memeorial to a hiker who had lost his life in 2016.His partner had stayed for three weeks in Mackenzie Hut until she was found. Sadly enough they were only about an hour from the hut.  The last part of the track has many trees which was pleasant for the coolness they provided, but even this wasn't ok for Tom. Just before we got out from there Tom said," Nani I am really tired." I could really empathize with him as it had been a long day. 

 It has always been a habit of mine, that as  soon as I arrive at any hut, I find the nearest water hole and wash away the sweat and dust of the day. So leaving on my dirty knickers and pulling on a top which covered the most important parts, I headed, with the others, to the beautiful Lake Mackenzie. My thoughts of swimming lazilyy around, quickly disappearwd when my first foot entered the snow cold water!!. I quickly raced in, jiggled a little bit , splashed the important places and quickly got out, enjoying the warmth of the sun as it dried me. It was so enjoyable to have nothing more to think of  than the beauty I had enjoyed during the day and chatting to fellow hikers in the hut.

Second night,Chinese Rice rissoto was a winner for dinner.  It can be difficult to provide tasty food when you are hiking.

Third day we headed to Howden hut but as this was only four hours and being the last day we took it far more leisurely., stopping at a place called the orchard for morning tea and enjoying the majestic Earland falls for a luch stop. (Still pita bread ,much to Tom’s dismay) Getting to the hut we met an amazing young 17 yr old woman from Scotland. She was in New Zealand for a year before she went back to university. She had done a lot of hiking with her parents so was happily tenting and travelling on her own very comfortably. This is one of the delights of freedom hiking - the variety of people you meet on the track. After cooling our selves down as best we could in the Lake, we walked up Key summit with her, enjoying her many stories and hopefully entertained her with our many hiking experiences as well. That night Creamy tomatoe and pesto was on the menu. All three dinners were heaped with praise.

Last day
Only a one hour walk to the Divide, situated on the Milford Road, where we were picked up by bus to return to Queenstown. Everyone was excited. We had had a wonderful three days but it was also nice to be going back to hot showers(no showers on track, hence the need to swim as much as we could) good coffee and no pita bread for lunch so we were all up early, eating the last of the muesli and fantasizing about the breakfast we would have on the lake front the next day. There was a slight hill of about 20 mins to climb before hitting the flat which led to the way out so I left about 20 mins before the others. I had almost got to the junction when they caught up. It did feel good to walk with the three of them. I am fine on flat terrain. It is the hills which I have to work hard on (However, I am also lucky that I can manage it with a 12 kms pck on my back so if I have to slow down a bit, that has to be ok)  We were so happy walking out. Discussing the pros and cons of which pie we would eat when we got to Te Anau, the first stop, when unfortunately my foot a hit a stone, I tripped, my pack pushed me forward and I hit my head on a rock(resulting in two beautiful black eyes on my return home) It was  just an unfortunate accident. Even this could not dampen my enthusiasm

Out trip back to Queenstown was uneventful (the potatoes topped pie bout at Te Anau tasted like nectar. This from a woman who tends to scorn food like this) As I reflected on the last four days, I thought how lucky I had been to have spent such precious time with these three exceptional people.

Life is definitely about making time for special adventures.

The Art Deco City of NZ -- Napier

                                   THE ART DECO CITY OF NZ  --  NAPIER

Six days spent in this engaging city, approximately four hours drive from Hamilton, was definitely worthwhile. We had decided to spend the time between Christmas and New Year exploring all the nooks and crannies.Some we had visited before and were enjoyable because of the memories that were stirred but others completely new.

The Napier Museum, on Tennyson St, holds the tragic story of the Napier earthquake, where over 150 of the population lost their lives. Survivors shared their stories of helping the injured and pulling the dead from the rubble. The shock and despair which permeated the whole city was there for all to see.  It took over two years to rebuild the city.

The Napier Port, which can be best seen from Bluff Hill, is one of the busiest ports in New Zealand. 50 cruise ships visit. 600 ships transfer goods.. 1,000,000 tons of log exports. 250,000 shipping containers are handled in a year. 240 full time employees keep this port moving. 4,000,000 tonnes of cargo of wood pulp export leave this port each year.

While we watched the activities of containers being unloaded, we also watched the cruise ship, Norwegian Princess, leaving the port. Amazing, as it was a huge liner but with the assistance of two brave little tug boats, she left port and headed towards her next destination which we presumed was Tauranga.


Cycle tracks allow you to explore a very wide geographical area. With many rental bike stalls around, clear cycle maps available  and the weather beautiful, the tracks were really busy.  There were little ones, tucked into trailers, attached to the back of the bike. Slightly older ones riding tandem with dad. A lovely family outing for old and young.  

Many of the winery entrances welcomed us into a wide grassy area, often split by a long winding driveway, usually edged with flower gardens or small bushes. These driveways led us to the front of the main building which was usually just as impressive. Again maps identifying the vineyards are available from iSite in Napier, so negotiating your way around is easy. Bus  and private car tours are also available.

We saw  New Year in, at the local soundshell, where a band and singer entertained until midnight. . Again the setting was beautiful.  A wide grassy space right in front of the soundshell, allowed people to put their picnic rugs down and while away the evenings. There was space right in front of the bands where little children jiggled and juggled the night away. At the back of the grass were may concrete seats which surrounded gardens, letting the audience sit a little way from the band but still able to hear and see it. There was a Zero ban on alcohol and a number of security and policemen to monitor this. But,  having said that, the evening went off beautifully, with everyone having  great time and a enjoying the countdown to 2018. The evening finished with a momentous fireworks display which must have lasted for at least 10 mins. A spectacular sight. A most memorable evening.

Lake Rotoroa

One of the walks I love doing after work, is the almost 4 km walk around Lake Rotoroa, a lake in the centre of the city. It is a completely flat walk but the everchanging scenery makes it a pleasure to enjoy after a busy working day. Easily accessed, it is about a three to four minute drive from the CBD.

A well constructed concrete and metalled path, which meanders around the shore line, makes up most of the walk, which can also take scooters, and wheelchairs. Yachting,  canoeing and kayaking are common sports seen on the lake. Innes Common to the East and West of the lake is a multisport ground, which includes lacrosse and hockey.

During December to April a myriad of multihued waterlilies provide a beautiful blanket in the lower part of the lake  - Pink, lemon, vivid chartreuse while the well kept gardens facing them are a blaze of color.

Ducks, swans and geese all paddle happily, disappearing underwater frequently to gather the little bugs growing there. Their calls follow me as I and many others enjoy this peace and tranquility. Pukekos stand sentry like and call raucously to warn others of approaching danger (which is me)




Early springs sees banks of bright yellow daffodils brightening a dull dreary afternoon.

Escape to the Pacific Islands

After an emotionally challenging time, selling my home of 45 years, an island escape, which included lots of swimming and sunbathing seemed a great idea. Tickets were booked and I arrived at Hideaway resort, on the Coral coast of Viti Levu Fiji. Hideaway resort is a one and half hour transfer from the airport which gives  you time to enjoy the passing countryside.Thatched roof fruit stalls on the side of the road, with a bountiful supply of watermelon, pineapple and mangoes. The beautiful African Tulip trees with their vibrant orange blossoms, Unruly grassy paddocks,with creeping weeds fighting for their right to be there and the odd lazy cow, chewing its cud, as it stands in the shade of whatever is available, passing the hot afternoon away.

Hideaway resort is placed on the edge of the coast, which, as well as having a very large swimming pool, the beach offers opportunities to swim, snorkel and look for treasures in the sand.Most rooms looked over the water, either encouraging you to get up and go swimming when you first woke or snuggle further down and just appreciate the stillness. Paddleboarding, kayaking,diving and surfing were all available. Instructors were provided if needed. (I am a snorkeller from way back so was happy with just exploring) A spa providing many beauty therapy treatments, was kept busy.People, who in their normal life, don't think "pamper" now made up for lost time. A complimentary 15 min foot massage was provided to every guest which possibly played a large part in introducing many to the pleasures of "time for yourself".Pool activities were aimed at having fun rather than ending up with abs like Rocky 2. and all ages joined in. Hideaway suits everyone.

The local villagers can be seen wading in the waters of half tide, looking for octopus hidden in the rocks. They carry sharp pronged spears or knives which they poke into the hole. The octopus winds its tentacles around this and is then dragged out of its hole(Sounds easy but I am sure there are many who"get away".) Apparently with each tide the rocks just get filled again as someone new takes the home over.

Unfortunately the coral is dying. Such a shame. When I first visited Beachcomber Island,about twenty years ago, the coral was spectacular - so healthy and so colourful. Apparently there is a move to bring in experts to try and kill the Crown of Thorns starfish which plays a large part in the destruction of the coral. It engulfs it and then feeds off it. Brightly coloured fish darted every which way. Lemon, white and black stripes, Nemo, black angel fish, orange, brown  and green,. Not very large but rewarding to see them returning.

Local buses run frequently and cost 2 dollars Fijian to get to Sigatoka, a small township about 30 mins drive from the resort. The one I caught to get me to the township was just an ordinary one, as we have in NZ but the one coming home had no windows and rolled up blinds which I presume you let down if it is raining!! .There was a beautiful vegetable market which all produce was very cheap. Carrots, tomatoes and tiny finger bananas were stored in my carry bag to bring home. Absolutely beautiful.

Teenagers seem to be the same everywhere. Some with no jobs, looking miserable and restless. Others I met were vital and interesting. One was a taxi driver, who, will own his own business in not too many years time I would think.. Energetic. Enthusiastic. No thoughts of leaving Fiji as with the involvement of China, he can just see things really moving forward. Another was a young woman, who explained how I caught the bus(She forgot to tell me to keep my ticket as it is collected as you leave the bus so there were a few anxious moments as I tried to remember if I had kept it or tossed it. luckily I had kept it) She wanted to be a lawyer. She will study at the University of South Pacific unless she can win a scholarship. With her attitude, I would be very surprised if she wasn't successful. Lovely to hear these young ones so positive about the future of Fiji.

One of the popular evening activities was watching the fire walkers. The fire had been burning all day. The walkers removed the huge logs which were still very well alight, and scraped the stones into a flatter pattern then 6 of them proceeded to walk over these burning hot stones  in bare feet. How can this happen????


The beautiful 83 foot schooner, Seaspray runs trips out to the clean, sandy  beaches of the Mamanuca Islands. Anchoring off Modriki,snorkeling and exploring the uninhabited island fills in a pleasant hour or two. (This island is very close to Castaway where the famous Tom Hanks "Castaway " film was set. ) Coral once again was dead and not as many fish as around Hideawy but still very pleasant to be in  the tepid waters. A tiny shark passed by, suggesting there may be bigger ones not too much further out. A visit to the village of Yanuya provides a Kava cermon as a welcome to the guests.. Kave is far from a pleasant drink but fascinating to be part of the ceremony. The village is self sufficient so there opportunities to purchase crafts from the women are made available. A visit to the local school which has 135 children, some boarders from outer islands and staffed by 7 teachers provides an insight into the private and secure world of these villagers.

Evening entertainment is usually provided by local villages. While amateurish, they were good to watch. Hips twirling in their hula skirts, (wondering if this was harder than pole dancing and wondering if I would give it  try)war challenges being offered by bare chested warriors and guitar strumming (the same ones who serenaded you in your bures if you hadn't gone to happy hour) , to sing songs of the Pacific.

A very beautiful country which is slowly being brought into the 21st century by the presence of  the Chinese. Will they be able to blend both cultures successfully?? I intend to go back and see for myself.

Waikato River Trails

Last Sunday morning, after spending the previous night at "Four Flat Whites in Italy" I leapt (yeah right!) out of bed at 6 a.m. I was off hiking  but needed to vacuum first  as the real estate agent was due out later in the afternoon. Racing out the door at 8 a.m., I picked my two hiking buddies up and off to the Waikato River Trail, which runs alongside the Waikato River.

 

Campervans are often parked along the banks - what a view to wake to. Mist,  resting softly on a gentle flowing river.

 

As we walked alongside the trail, we commented on the amazing planting which has been carried out. Flaxes, native trees, and really enjoying the carpets of autumn leaves covering the track.

 

 

 

Reaching Rhubarb café, 6 kms along the track, which took us about 1 and half hours,we gratefully stopped and enjoyed their coffee and a muffin. I left the other two when they continued their hike, to capture some of the sights in a more leisurely manner. As this is part of a 103 km trail, which can be either biked or hiked, the conveniently placed back packers is an added advantage those who want a rest place

 

 

That night, reflecting on my day, I thought once again, how beautiful our country is.

 

www.waikatorivertrails.co.nz/

PUKEMOKEMOKE

On a miserable, wet but warm summer Sunday, I threw my hiking boots and poles into the car and went to walk Pukemokemoke bush track. The walk itself is only about 20 minutes but really grunty. While it is well marked and easy to follow, it just keeps climbing steadily. The weather cleared as I arrived and the Tui and cicadas sang a I puffed and panted my way to the top. A mixture of Kauri, Ponga, Totara, Kanuka, Kawakawa and Matai trees are found on the track.

 

 

The lookout at the summit (166 mtrs) of the track provides an amazing 360 degree view of the region, with many of the mountains and peaks e.g. Maugatautari, Kariori, Te Aroha, Hakrimates and others very easily seen. The reserve is about 15 minutes from Gordonton village on the Tauhei Rd – just past the Tauhei school. A long right of way opens into quite a large carpark, which would easily take campervans.

Enjoying New Zealand

Who is Denise Irvine? Why is she writing this blog? Where is she?

 I  have been having adventures throughout New Zealand for over thirty years, since the age of forty, and now would like to share some experiences with the hopes that I will encourage you to attempt them as you spend time in New Zealand.  New Zealand with its beautiful scenery offers so many opportunities for exploring. Hiking, biking, black and white water rafting, golf carts along old railway lines, beautiful beaches for lazing or body surfing.

Big tracks to hike on such as the Milford Track, a three night and four day which can either be enjoyed by freedom hiking or by being guided. Guided is a a little more expensive but very comfortable. Roast meals and hot showers win out over pasta made with dried milk powder! Emme (my grand daughter) and I enjoyed the scenery and each others company on the Routeburn in 2015. These tracks are well set up, even for freedom hiking but must be booked early, like a year before.

Biking trails are growing quickly in  number. Often these are formed from old railway track. All created for different levels of fitness. One I particularly enjoyed was the Otago rail trail. A three night, four day event where we were supported along the way by the Otago Milton Rotary Tramping club. All accommodation was booked for us. First night in a school house, next night, cabins in a camping ground, third night a type of backpackers where we spent some of the time learning the art of curling in the local town and the last night at a hotel. Two of the volunteers would arrive each day with fresh bread and fillings for lunch and plenty of water, which we so appreciated, both for drinking immediately and filling our water bottles. Bikes can be rented to ride this trail  and accommodation is cheap and easily accessed.

One of the nicest things about these adventures is that you meet many like minded people. You enjoy the adventures with them and although may never see them again, they remain a special memory.

Do enjoy New Zealand and make every minute count.

Golf carts which have been adapted to run along railway lines is another experience I thoroughly enjoyed.

 

 

Emme at the Auckland airport with her boarding pass to Queenstown on way to Routeburn 2015